Need help with protrait pictures

[Susan Unger]

I took some pictures for a family at church recently and they just loved them. The father is considering having me take their family's "portrait" instead of paying a professional. I'd love to except I've never done this before.

My question is what kind of background should I look for? Our sanctuary is painted cement blocks in dark colors. I am not sure that I'd want that for a 'portrait'.

We could go outside with the flowers and pretty spring scenes. But when would be a good time of the day? Is it better to do it cloudy so as not to be super bright, in the early morning?

And for the background - should we have lots of flowers [say at a garden] or wooded area, back of the church [white brick]? I am open for suggestions.

Or maybe stick to inside the sanctuary but tape a white sheet up on the wall?

[Julie Reed]

Our family portrait was taken outside around 5. It was in a park during the summer with green grass and woods in the background. Really beautiful. I've seen some where all of the family members were wearing denim. At the time we all were pretty dressed up and it still looked good. I've also seen family portraits taken by the ocean and the family members were all dressed in white taken around 7:00. Very beautiful. I guess I just prefer the outdoors.

[Jonathan Long]

Susan,

There are many variables to portrait photography... you can use almost anything as a background - as long as it's out of focus it won't matter if its cinder block or a flower garden. The client needs to decide how formal they want the pictures to be before you really can decide on a setting.

Outdoors makes lighting easier, avoid overhead, bright, direct sun at all cost. Look for a location that would be in the open shade if the sun is bright. If it's slightly overcast the sky will cast almost no shadow and create great lighting. Heavy overcast usually makes for dull looking pictures.

The time of day affects the color temp. of the sun. The general rule of thumb is early morning (usually bluish) works, take a break from 10 -3 (light is too direct tobe pleasing), and your light will return again after 5 (during the summer).

Even if you're shooting outside plan on using your flash, it will create a sparkle in the subjects eyes that will keep them from looking dull and lifeless. The flash will also minimize any shadows present and keep the contrast ratio manageble.

There's a ton of information available online on how to shoot portraits. For many photographers it's trial and error, but if you have a paying client... then it's a requirement that you get shots that will please them. If you don't feel up to the task be honest with the family, they will respect you more for telling them. Dana shoots portraits but doesn't charge, she tells them that she's not a professional but would be happy to try shooting them...

If you need additional information please feel free to contact me.

Jon

[Susan Unger]

Susan,

There are many variables to portrait photography... you can use almost anything as a background - as long as it's out of focus it won't matter if its cinder block or a flower garden. The client needs to decide how formal they want the pictures to be before you really can decide on a setting.

Outdoors makes lighting easier, avoid overhead, bright, direct sun at all cost. Look for a location that would be in the open shade if the sun is bright. If it's slightly overcast the sky will cast almost no shadow and create great lighting. Heavy overcast usually makes for dull looking pictures.

The time of day affects the color temp. of the sun. The general rule of thumb is early morning (usually bluish) works, take a break from 10 -3 (light is too direct tobe pleasing), and your light will return again after 5 (during the summer).

Even if you're shooting outside plan on using your flash, it will create a sparkle in the subjects eyes that will keep them from looking dull and lifeless. The flash will also minimize any shadows present and keep the contrast ratio manageble.

There's a ton of information available online on how to shoot portraits. For many photographers it's trial and error, but if you have a paying client... then it's a requirement that you get shots that will please them. If you don't feel up to the task be honest with the family, they will respect you more for telling them. Dana shoots portraits but doesn't charge, she tells them that she's not a professional but would be happy to try shooting them...

If you need additional information please feel free to contact me.

Jon

They had talked about paying me, but I'd just be doing it as a friend so won't accept the money. I do though want to do this 'right' so that they can have something nice for home and family since they don't have a camera themselves and are on a limited budget.

Interesting about using the flash even in the sunlight.

I'll ponder this some more and let you know if I have any more questions. Gotta figure out a good place to have the picture first...

[Dana Grant]

Susan,

There are many variables to portrait photography... you can use almost anything as a background - as long as it's out of focus it won't matter if its cinder block or a flower garden. The client needs to decide how formal they want the pictures to be before you really can decide on a setting.

Outdoors makes lighting easier, avoid overhead, bright, direct sun at all cost. Look for a location that would be in the open shade if the sun is bright. If it's slightly overcast the sky will cast almost no shadow and create great lighting. Heavy overcast usually makes for dull looking pictures.

The time of day affects the color temp. of the sun. The general rule of thumb is early morning (usually bluish) works, take a break from 10 -3 (light is too direct tobe pleasing), and your light will return again after 5 (during the summer).

Even if you're shooting outside plan on using your flash, it will create a sparkle in the subjects eyes that will keep them from looking dull and lifeless. The flash will also minimize any shadows present and keep the contrast ratio manageble.

There's a ton of information available online on how to shoot portraits. For many photographers it's trial and error, but if you have a paying client... then it's a requirement that you get shots that will please them. If you don't feel up to the task be honest with the family, they will respect you more for telling them. Dana shoots portraits but doesn't charge, she tells them that she's not a professional but would be happy to try shooting them...

If you need additional information please feel free to contact me.

Jon

Yep, it is sort of my mission, I guess you could say. PLUS, it is so much less stressful -- I tell them that if none of the pictures turn out lovely (which that has not happened yet, thankfully!!), then...they got what they paid for!!! LOL

I'm getting better, though, so I don't worry quite as much as I used to. I still struggle with depth of field.....not so much the spark in the eyes anymore, I'm getting better at that. But the depth of field -- grrrrrrrr.....my thorn in the flesh....photographically speaking, of course.

Have fun, Susan!!

[Jonathan Long]

Dana,

Controlling depth of field is done by selecting the correct f-stop. If you want almost no depth of field to isolate a subject from the background you would use f2.8 or f 4. If you want some depth of field to help identify some of the background try using f 5.6 or f 8. Then if you want extreme depth of field try using f 11 of f 16.

Depth of field is also in part controlled by the focal length of the lens you're using. A general rule is the wider angle of the lens - the more depth of field you get. Also if you use a point and shoot camera you'll discover that the lens only allows you to open the lens to somewhere around f 4.5, which gives you more depth of field than you may want.

One trick you can try is moving your subject further away from the background to reduce the depth of field and use a telephoto setting on the lens. The trade off is that then most point and shoot cameras built in flash won't carry enough light to the subject due to the distance. So you need to find a way to create the highlight in the subjects eyes, that can be done using a reflector to redirect ambient light into the subjects eyes...

Did you get all that? LOL..... I know it's a lot of info.... this is why photographers make the money we do... We spend a ton of money on earplugs, so all of the info we've learned can't leak out of our heads.....

Jon

[Susan Unger]

Guess I should practice my depth of field while I wait to see if this is what the couple wants to do.

[Jonathan Long]

Susan,

What type of equipment are you planning to use? I can't remember if you shoot with a DSLR or a point and shoot....

Jon

[Susan Unger]

Susan,

What type of equipment are you planning to use? I can't remember if you shoot with a DSLR or a point and shoot....

JonIt is a Canon SX10is and a tripod.

[Jonathan Long]

Susan,

I did a quick search online and this is what I found...

"The lens starts out at f/2.8 and reaches f/5.0 at about 200mm, with f/5.7 coming up just before reaching the 560mm mark".

So watch your depth of field closely. Many camera's with built in lenses use whats called a variable aperture design. On the wide end the lens has a maximum aperture of f2.8 which is very good, but as you zoom the maximum aperture changes... f5.0 at 200mm isn't so good.

I also checked to see about the built in flash. It's maximum distance is 17ft. The problem becomes when you use the flash outside, the effective distance will drop quickly in bright fill flash situations. My recommendation would be to go purchase a flash that sits on the hotshoe or at least to purchase a large piece of white foamcore or poster board to use as a reflector if you plan on shooting outside.

Given your camera, I'd storngly recommend that you shoot outdoors.The limitations of your built in flash to provide a pleasing light will leave you disappointed if shooting indoors. Plus the flash is located so close to the lens - which will create a unpleasing light for your subjects....

Jon

[Susan Unger]

Susan,

I did a quick search online and this is what I found...

"The lens starts out at f/2.8 and reaches f/5.0 at about 200mm, with f/5.7 coming up just before reaching the 560mm mark".

So watch your depth of field closely. Many camera's with built in lenses use whats called a variable aperture design. On the wide end the lens has a maximum aperture of f2.8 which is very good, but as you zoom the maximum aperture changes... f5.0 at 200mm isn't so good.

I also checked to see about the built in flash. It's maximum distance is 17ft. The problem becomes when you use the flash outside, the effective distance will drop quickly in bright fill flash situations. My recommendation would be to go purchase a flash that sits on the hotshoe or at least to purchase a large piece of white foamcore or poster board to use as a reflector if you plan on shooting outside.

Given your camera, I'd storngly recommend that you shoot outdoors.The limitations of your built in flash to provide a pleasing light will leave you disappointed if shooting indoors. Plus the flash is located so close to the lens - which will create a unpleasing light for your subjects....

Jon

How would I use the posterboard as a reflector? This part is totally new for me.

We have a wooded area in the church's backyard that we could use for background.

[Jonathan Long]

Susan,

The reflector is used to "bounce" light back towards your subject. It needs to be positioned very close to the subjects. Generally it's positioned so that the light will lighten the shadows underneath the chins and eye sockets. The reflector needs to be large!

If you plan to use woods as abackground the one thing I'd storngly recommend is that you really pay attention to posing. Make sure that there are no trees growing out of anyones head... even if they are blurred due to lack of depth of field, they will be distracting to the viewer. There's nothing like shooting someone's portrait and finding out during the editing process that a tree is "growing" from a head in the picture....

Try to setup far enough away from the background that it will be out of focus using the aperture selected.

Jon

[Susan Unger]

Susan,

The reflector is used to "bounce" light back towards your subject. It needs to be positioned very close to the subjects. Generally it's positioned so that the light will lighten the shadows underneath the chins and eye sockets. The reflector needs to be large!Would that be those white umbrellas I sometimes see when I get my picture done professionally?

Also, I know that my flash sometimes will not work if it doesn't sense enough darkness when I am indoors. Would that happen if I were to use an extra flash [on the hotshoe]? And would any flash work or does it have to be one made specifically for my camera?


If you plan to use woods as abackground the one thing I'd storngly recommend is that you really pay attention to posing. Make sure that there are no trees growing out of anyones head... even if they are blurred due to lack of depth of field, they will be distracting to the viewer. There's nothing like shooting someone's portrait and finding out during the editing process that a tree is "growing" from a head in the picture....

Try to setup far enough away from the background that it will be out of focus using the aperture selected.

Jon

I remember you mentioning 'tress growing out of peoples' heads' before and have tried to keep that in mind ever since.

And so, when using the woods, have the family not really be 'framed' by the woods but stand closer to me in order to keep the background out of focus.

[Jonathan Long]

Susan,

The large white umbrella is diffusing a flash head. By using duffusion you make the light source larger and softer (just like an overcast day - where you still see shadows, but the edge of the shadow is soft instead of a hard line.

I'd look for a flash that worked with my camera's ttl (thru the lens) metering. Canon makes them as well as a few aftermarket makers. Be sure that it works with your model camera... some low end flashes will tell you that they are compatable with Canon... but compatable means it fits on the hotshoe...

A hotshoe flash would be the easiest way to add the light that you'll need. As far as the flash not firing.... you should be able to "force" the flash to fire. Check your camera manual for details. Please make sure that you turn off your auto ISO setting...

I'd be using aperture priority (f4 or f5.6), ISO 100 and force the flash to fire. You may need to adjust the output of the flash depending on the available light, again I'd refer you to your camera manual.

I hope this all helps and isn't too much information....

Jon

[Susan Unger]

I'd look for a flash that worked with my camera's ttl (thru the lens) metering. Canon makes them as well as a few aftermarket makers. Be sure that it works with your model camera... some low end flashes will tell you that they are compatable with Canon... but compatable means it fits on the hotshoe...

A hotshoe flash would be the easiest way to add the light that you'll need. As far as the flash not firing.... you should be able to "force" the flash to fire. Check your camera manual for details. Please make sure that you turn off your auto ISO setting...
Maybe that is why it doesn't work when it is not needed. I'll check for that the next time I use it.

And short of going back to the camera shop where I got the camera, how would I know how to find such a flash? I looked at Canon's webite and saw what they had to offer but I don't know if it is automatically compatible as it didn't say it in black and white.

[Jonathan Long]

Susan,

A flash that Canon currently sells will be compatible with your camera. It's the aftermarket flashes that you need to watch out for, although there are a few makers that I'd trust... Sigma if the first one that thought of...

If you can find a used Canon 420EX flash, that would provide you with enough power and work with the ttl system in your camera. I wouldn't bother buying the smallest flash that Canon sells, it barely has more power than your built in flash.

Any discontinued Canon flash thats name ends in EX will work with your camera and retain the ttl.

I hope this helps you,

Jon

[Jonathan Long]

Susan,

I just sent you a PM that may help you.

Jon

[Susan Unger]

Susan,

A flash that Canon currently sells will be compatible with your camera. It's the aftermarket flashes that you need to watch out for, although there are a few makers that I'd trust... Sigma if the first one that thought of...

If you can find a used Canon 420EX flash, that would provide you with enough power and work with the ttl system in your camera. I wouldn't bother buying the smallest flash that Canon sells, it barely has more power than your built in flash.

Any discontinued Canon flash thats name ends in EX will work with your camera and retain the ttl.

I hope this helps you,

Jon

This is all very helpful! Except, what is an after market flash?

[Jonathan Long]

Anything "aftermarket" is made by a company other than Canon (in this case). Each camera company markets camera bodies, lenses, flashes... the aftermarket companies market lenses and flashes for use with Nikon, Canon, Pentax or other makers that they make... sometimes the lenses are very good! and other times they're not so good, depending on the model line and price point (you get what you pay for).

I hope this explains some of the terminology.... I forget sometimes that not everyone speaks Pro photographer lingo....

Jon

[Susan Unger]

Anything "aftermarket" is made by a company other than Canon (in this case). Each camera company markets camera bodies, lenses, flashes... the aftermarket companies market lenses and flashes for use with Nikon, Canon, Pentax or other makers that they make... sometimes the lenses are very good! and other times they're not so good, depending on the model line and price point (you get what you pay for).

I hope this explains some of the terminology.... I forget sometimes that not everyone speaks Pro photographer lingo....

JonThanks. With me, use baby language :)